The garage floor right before we started this project
This is the third and last part of our new garage finishing project.
On our previous two posts, we showed you how we insulated, dry walled, primed and painted our new garage. With all those projects out of the way, it was time to move on and install a nice porcelain tile garage floor.
We did it last because we didn’t want to get our new nice porcelain all dirty while working with drywall, primer, and paint.
As you have read before, in our previous two garages, we used epoxy, however, as you have also read, I was not very satisfied with it. So I decided to try something different in our new garage.
After looking at different options, I decided to give porcelain a try, mostly because as you may know by now, it is one of my favorite flooring options. We went with a two color, white and gray design.
Before starting with the installation, we decided to eliminate the closet on the far end of the garage. This was so that we could better accommodate our existing cabinets. None of the end walls was wide enough for them, so it made sense to do this. So right after we framed, drywalled and painted the area, we installed the wall cabinets so we could store and keep some of our stuff off the floor while we worked on this installation.
PREPARING THE GARAGE FLOOR FOR PORCELAIN TILE
Installing porcelain tile in a garage is not that much different than installing it in any other room. There may be few things that need to be taken care of before you start with the installation, though.
- Check that the floor is level.
Since builders do not pay too much attention to the garage finishes, the floor may not be perfectly flat. They usually have low or high spots that you may need to either fill up or grind down before your installation. Use a long beam level to identify them. Another area of concern is around the contraction joints. In our case, I was satisfied with how level the floor was, so I didn’t fill up or grind down any areas.
- Clean any greasy spots.
Greasy spots do not help with mortar adhesion, make sure you use some degreaser to clean up any greasy spots on your garage floor before starting with the installation.
- Repair any cracks.
It is always advisable to repair any concrete cracks before tile installations. This is to avoid cracking the tile due to concrete movement.
Once this is done, the next steps are very similar to the ones I’ve mentioned before:
- Measure and mark the center of the garage, use a chalk line if possible.
This time, however, I paid attention to the position of the contraction joints. Luckily the two main ones divided the garage in four almost identical areas, so my chalk lines were basically on top of the contraction joints.
This is important because you want to avoid setting complete tiles on top of these joints. They could crack. To help with this, you could use a crack isolation membrane, but that’s an extra preparation step and expense you’d have to incur. In our case, though, instead of having a complete tile, we have a ground line.
The chalk lines we used as guide to position the tiles
- Lay the tiles from the center mark you got on the previous step, to the walls, using tile spacers, to make sure you have tiles about the same size on all sides of the garage.
This is how we check the tile’s positioning before we start setting them in mortar
We checked the tile’s positioning on all sides of the garage
At this point, we decided we were good to go
LAYING THE PORCELAIN TILE GARAGE FLOOR
Once we were happy with the positioning of the tile, we went ahead and started setting them in mortar. This time, however, we used crack prevention Flex Bond, instead of the regular Versa Bond we’ve used before. It is stronger and prevents against cracking due to minor surface movements, a possibility in the garage, mostly due to temperature changes in our area.
We also back buttered every single tile for extra bonding strength and impact resistance.
Laying the new porcelain tile garage floor
Laying the porcelain tile on the left side of the garage
When we finished laying the tile on the left side of the garage, we started grouting it with Delorean Gray grout. This was so that we could move our stuff to that area and continue working on the right side.
Grouting the left side so we could move on to the right one
Getting excited with the porcelain installation almost completed
End of the porcelain installation, moving on with the grout
At the driveway-garage transition, we used a Schluter Systems Reno Ramp .
The Schluter System’s Reno Ramp we used at the driveway-garage transition
Lastly, we finished grouting the rest of the garage, sealed the grout a twice, and at the end, I retouched the “baseboard” (foundation) as it got a bit dirty with the grout.
Grouting the rest of the garage with Delorean Gray Grout
Cleaning up the new porcelain garage floor
Cleaning up and removing all the haze left over from the grout job
Cleaning up and final touches to the new porcelain tile garage floor
INSTALLING THE REST OF THE KOBALT GARAGE METAL CABINETS
As you may have noticed, for this project, we didn’t have to get new cabinets. We moved our existing ones from our previous garage to this one. It made sense to do this, because they are in perfect, like new shape. Actually, one of the reasons why I bought these in the first place, was because I always thought that if I ever moved I could take them with me to the new place, and that’s exactly what we did.
The first six garage cabinets in their final position
Due to lack of space, the other two were installed on a different wall
There’s still enough space to park two cars in the garage
Now we just need some new light fixtures
Readers, what type of garage floor do you have? Have you considered a porcelain tile one?
Ready to move forward with your Porcelain Tile Garage Floor? This is what you need:
- Screwdrivers and hand tools (always useful)
- Chalk line
- Framing square
- Tile and tile saw
- Tile spacers (optional, but make the job way easier and accurate)
- Notched trowel
- FlexBond Thin set
- Rubber Float
- Grout
- Sponges
- 5-gallon bucket
- Storage cabinets
- Drill and drill bits (to make holes & set screws to install cabinets)
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Thanks for sharing I am in Toronto and wondering if I need an uncoupling membrane to eliminate problems with shifting under extreme cold and if there a a membrane you would recommend.
QUESTION on Garage Floor Porcelain Tile.
Any Pros or Cons on Porceline Tile from FLOOR & DECOR. They seem to have the lowest $$$ Porcelain that has a PEI of 4.
Hello, Barry,
Thanks for your comment and for reading our blog.
Unfortunately, I am not familiar with their porcelain tile. However, if it has a PEI rating of 4, I would think it should work just fine for your garage.
Let us know what you decide!
I like this idea and plan to use porcelain in my garage. Did you use grout or caulk between the transition piece and the tile? In my case that will be outside the garage and more exposed to water and ice which could cause problems.
Steve
Hello, Steve,
Thanks for your comment and for reading our blog.
I use caulk. The gap between the two was small, I don’t remember if I tried to grout it, but I ended up caulking it.
We have had this flooring for over 4 years now and it has been great!
Let us know how your project goes!
What are the ratings on the tile? I’ve been looking for PEI of 5 or maybe 4, but it is hard finding some that is not glazed or printed on. I’ve read that throughbody is the best. Any suggestions of where I could find it?
Hello, Candelario,
Thanks for your comment and for reading our blog.
These have a PEI rating of 4 and are not through body. Like you, we had a very hard time finding them. It’s been a while now, but if I remember correctly, the only through body ones we found were an ugly color and also cost a fortune.
After almost for years with ours, I would not be concerned using any porcelain with a PEI rating of 4 or 5, as long as they are installed correctly, they will be fine!
Let us know what you decide!
I have toyed with porcelain for a new garage floor. However, I have a four post lift, so how would the porcelain hold up with such weight in a concentrated space?
Hello, Pres,
Thanks for your comment and for reading our blog.
I would not be concerned about the porcelain. It should work just fine with your lift.
Worst case, for peace of mind, it may not be ideal, but could you tile around the four posts?
Let us know what you decide!
Hey, Mr Tony! Great looking garage floor! I have heard advice against tiling the garage floor – not because of the tile, but of the grout. I know you sealed it (what sealer?), but do you work on your cars or spill nasty fluids on it very often? Have you resealed it? Does your grout still look good? By the way, what brand tile did you use? Thanks for the blog, looks just great!
Hello, Dave,
Thanks for your comment and for reading our blog.
Glad to hear you like our garage! We are still very happy with our decision to tile it. So far so good after almost 4 years!
Other than oil changes I do not do a lot of work on our cars. However, I would think that someone who does, would not want oil and/or other nasty fluids, as you say, to spill all over the garage, anyway. I usually put a piece of cardboard before the oil changes, when I’ve had drops of oil on the tiles, they wipe right off with a clean rag or paper towel.
We used porcelain tile from Lowes. And regular grout and sealer from Home Depot, I have not resealed it yet. It is still looking great, except for a small area close to the garage door where it’s cracked a little bit. I’ve seen a small water puddle in the area after parking in the garage and the cars are wet from rain/snow. I assume it sees bigger temperature swings as well. I remember writing somewhere that I do not mind doing some small repairs such as this every few years. The benefits are definitely worth doing some maintenance from time to time.
As of right now, that maintenance has only included sweeping and mopping the floors because I like it clean. I’ve been wanting to post an update so everyone can see how great it looks after 4 years! Hopefully this summer!
Are you planning a similar project?
Question – I’m seriously thinking about installing porcelain tiles in my garage. My question is how do they hold up with tire marks, say from just warm/hot tires, the concrete has blackish tire marks, and was wondering if the same should be expected on porcelain tiles, whether they are easy enough to clean off or if you’ve seen this to be an issue?
Good afternoon, Brad,
Thanks for your comment and for reading our blog.
Tire marks are not an issue at all. Actually, the only times I see tire marks on the porcelain is when we get the cars in the garage with the tires wet.
I will be writing an updated post on the garage porcelain soon. However, I can tell you that, today, almost three years later, the floor looks exactly as it did when it was installed!
Hi Tony – thank you for advising, very helpful. May I ask a similar question except this time instead of porcelain tile, if I went with an acid stain or acrylic waterproof concrete sealer, whether hot tire pickup would be an issue? Any experience or thoughts you have would be much appreciated.
Hello, Brad,
I’m glad I could help.
Unfortunately, I do not have any experience with those other flooring types. I recommend you check out All Garage Floors, they have lots of information and great articles about all kinds of garage flooring options.
I have a four-year-old urethane floor coating in my garage that is coming loose from the concrete. This was professionally installed but the warranty has expired and the contractor that installed it is now out of business. I’m considering ceramic tile. Do think the urethane will need to be completely removed to ensure good adhesions of the tile?
Good afternoon, Gary,
Thanks for your comment and for reading our blog.
Unfortunately, the quality of your tile installation depends a LOT on the subfloor. Installing the tile on top of a urethane coating that is coming loose will most likely cause your tile to start coming loose as well.
Without even seeing the floor, I will go as far as to say, that if it were me, I would grind the whole thing to completely remove the urethane coating before even thinking about laying tile. So, to answer your question, yes, the whole urethane coating needs to be removed before laying the tile.
Let us know how the project goes!
Nice job laying the tile but this has to be one of the weirdest things who puts porcelain tile in a garage. I can see cracked tiles in ur future. I guess that’s why they say different strokes for different folks. I would of spent that time diamond grinding the concrete for epoxy flake floor.
Bill,
Thanks for reading our blog and for taking the time to share your opinion.
We agree, different strokes for different folks.
Assuming they are properly installed (back buttered and full thin set coverage), good porcelain tiles offer one of the strongest flooring/work surface options available. They are even stronger than the concrete in which they are installed.
You have no idea how many horror stories I’ve heard about epoxy, even from people who paid thousands of dollars to a so called “professional installer”.
We’ve been abusing the tiles for over a year now, they still look like day one. If we happen to crack or completely break one, we can just easily replace it, something you cannot do if you drop a tool and chip your epoxy.
Bill,
Nice job. I want to install tiles in my garage. I’ve been advised to use outside porcelain tiles that are 3/4” thick especially since my slab isn’t in the best condiction. Thoughts?
Also, which Schluter Reno ramp did you use and what are the dimensions? I noticed some models have a lip that fits under the tile and some do not. I think the 3/4” high ramp only comes with the lip. My garage door is about 3” from the edge of my slab. It seems if I install the 2.5” wide ramp then some of the concrete will show. If I install the 3.5” wide ramp my garage door might be caught under the it. Thoughts?
Also, did you install the Schluter Ditra uncoupling? I have had differing opinions re whether I need it. I’ve been told the type of mortar used is more important than whether or not uncoupling is used. Thoughts.
Thank you!
Bonnie
Hi Bonnie,
Thanks for your comment and for reading our blog.
We used a 3/8″ reno ramp. It did have a lip. It is about 3 inches wide, half of it sits outside the garage, the rest is caught under the garage door, which seems to be your concern. Ours has been installed for over 5 years now, and we’ve had absolutely no issues with it.
We did not install the Ditra uncoupling.
Let us know how your project goes!
Tile is harder than concrete, properly installed (as mentioned, back buttered) ceramic and porcelain will not break.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=elJtN6nRlhk
Professional garages, dealerships in particular are big fans
Completely agree, Dustin!
I never thought it would be this easy. Thanks for sharing this. I will definitely give this a try.
Thank you, Dave.
We enjoy sharing all our projects and there’s nothing better than knowing that they’ve been helpful to others.
Please, share some photos once you get it done!
Great porcelain you got there. This idea is amazing, I might do this too.
Thank you, Fred,
You should definitely try it, we are sure you will not regret it!
How do these tiles hold up to metal objects on them like jack stands with a vehicle on the stands. How do things roll on them like creepers and stools and such.
Hello Jared, Thanks for reading our blog.
Based on our research, many have had their porcelain tile garages for years with no issues even though they do mechanic, welding, carpentry and other jobs. There’s even a video of a guy sledgehammering his ceramic tile floor, look it up. As long as they’re properly set (back butter and complete thin set coverage) they should be even stronger than your concrete.
As far as rolling stuff, not an issue at all. They’re not slippery when wet either, which is another concern many people have.